This page will outline the initial steps of getting your bike running with MyECU. Before continuing you should have read the manuals available from the technical page and have installed the Android Optimiser onto your device.
Note the following procedures do not require you to perform any mechanical adjustments to your bike, assuming your bike is properly setup for the OEM ECU.
First ensure that the 4 switches inside the MyECU are set appropriately. Initially closed loop should not be enabled so make sure switch 1 is set to ON.
Except for the MiniMyP8, the MyECU is built into the same casing as the original controller so it is a simple matter to replace the original ECU with MyECU. As shipped, MyECU has the lid removed to allow access. It is left to you to seal it as you see fit.
With MyECU in place, turn on the ignition key. You should hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds and then stop. If this is not the case you should contact me for further guidance.
Turn off the ignition key and attach the Bluetooth dongle that shipped with the MyECU. Note that although the connector looks like a network connector it is not a network connector.
Follow the procedure in the Android Optimiser manual to establish connection with the MyECU. Once you have communication you should upload the map that is already in the MyECU. Then save it to a file.
Verify all the sensor inputs have correct values.
On the throttle dial under the THR there are two numbers displayed. The first number is a floating point number and the second number is an integer. We're interested in the 2nd number. Make sure the Fast Idle lever is off and the throttle closed (As if you were idling at a set of lights with a warm engine). Take note of that second number. It should be between 50 and 150.
The Android Optimiser doesn't allow setting the TPS base yet so let's edit the map file with a simple text editor and modify the value manually. Look for the line with "TPS=" near line 30 and change to use the number noted, for me "TPS=103". Now save the map. With the Android Optimiser, load this modified map file and download it to the MyECU. You should see the first throttle number at 0.0 and should see it change to 0.1 with only a slight throttle.
If possible the first start is easiest if the bike has been warmed up with the original controller. If you can't do this then make sure your battery is fully charged as it may take a few attempts to start the bike cold.
When the bike does start, warm or cold, it is unlikely to idle, or may do roughly. This is to be expected at this point so be ready to apply a little throttle to keep the bike running. Allow the bike to warm up completely before continuing.
If you have a stable idle at 1100-1200 when warm you can skip this step.
I find the easiest solution is to reduce the spark advance. This can be done by editing the map manually or with the Android Optimiser. The cells to adjust are on the bottom row ( because there is no throttle ). Select columns between 1000 and 2000 RPM. Reduce the spark advance only by 10%. Save the modified map to a new file and download the map to the MyECU. Repeat once more if necessary. If it is still too fast you should try reducing the speed by adjusting the throttle idle stops. Go back to step 3.
In this case we're going to assume the mixture needs some adjustment. With the Android Optimiser select all the cells and add 5% to the mixture. Save the modified map to a different file and download the map to the MyECU. If this is an improvement repeat a few more times until no noticeable improvement is seen. If it is worse go back to the unmodified map and try by reducing the mixture 5%.
If you don't have a lambda sensor skip this step. This step assumes the following has been performed.
Turn switch 1 to OFF and let the bike idle. There are some timers in MyECU to start closed loop operation but a quick blip to 3000 RPM can start operation also. When operating, a moving graph display will appear on the Android Optimiser. What's important here is the yellow line that indicates the closed loop correction. It should settle on a value and tend to stay there with small adjustments. If it diverges to + or - 25% then something is not right. The bike might even stall before this.
If closed loop is performing well you are right to go for a ride and start logging data.
Improving your map in open loop involves a trial and error process similar to that in step 5 when adusting the idle mixture. The difference here is that you will be more selective in the areas of the map you select for adjustment. For instance if you think the bike lacks power at large throttle, you might just select the top half of the map. If it lacks at high RPM then the right half of the map. Over time you adjustments will be reduce to specific areas of the map. You will previously have noted the RPM and throttle that you want to adjust.
First you need to understand how the MyECU handles starts. Starts are handled in two stages. Stage 1 is when the engine is at less than the first column's RPM. This is when you press the start button and the engine is cranking and lasts up to the first firing. After the RPM increases to more than the first column's RPM the ECU enters stage 2.
During stage 1 the throttle is ignored completely. This allows flooding to be cleared by opening the throttle. The injector duration is controlled only by the "Prime" line in the map. The spark advance comes from either the map if TDCWhileCranking=0 or is zero degrees if TDCWhileCranking=1. The latter should be used if there is any kick back from the engine.
During stage 2 the injector duration is taken from the map in the usual way but a short term boost is applied from the "Crank" line. This boost gradually decays to nothing in around 10 seconds or so. Also affecting stage two are the map values in the first column.
Note that both the prime and crank lines are based on temperature from the coolant or oil temperature sensor.
If you are not getting any firing at all your issue is with stage 1 and the Prime line. If it fires but doesn't catch then it is a stage 2 issue.