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This kit contains many small components. A clear workspace is recommended. First identify the all components. Use the parts count to help.
All the resistors are clearly labelled but the surface mount capacitors are unmarked.
Construction should only be attempted by experienced hobbyists.
A small soldering iron and tweezers are required and a visual aid like a lit magnifying glass is recommended. There are also some parts ( the FET bodies, some ground connections and the main connector ) that will require a soldering
iron that has a higher heat capacity ( not termperature ) to properly heat the solder.
I suggest assembly in the order of the parts list ( left ) upto and including the MOV( apply MOV with main connector ). Don't solder in Q5 yet.
A machined socket has beeen provided for the main chip. This is because some holes were not drilled properly. Make sure that the 6 pins with tracks on the surface ( pins 22-27 ) are also soldered on the top surface.
On the first run of PCBs, the lower pad of C11 is left unconnected. This must be connected to 0V. This can be easily achieved by connecting it to the lower pad of D16 just to the right.
For the version driving the coils directly, The driver FETs are only partially integrated. Only their source pin is grounded. The gate and drain pins must be wired to the smaller Q1, Q2 pads.
Also it is important that the ECU's output polarity is reversed in this configuration. This is done by grounding pin 1 ( lower right ) of the main chip with a wire.
Make sure the two chips are not in their socket and Q5 not installed for these initial tests. I suggest using a small 9V battery or a 12V battery with a 100 ohm resistor in series. Do not proceed if a test fails.
- Apply the negative of the voltage source to one of the mounting holes.
- Apply the positive to the top leg of the polyswitch or pin 20 of the main connector.
- Check that nothing is getting warm ( including the series resistor if used ). The voltage drop across polyswitch should be less than 1/2 volt.
- Check for most of the voltage at the right pin of the voltage regulator (closest to edge ). Expect greater than 7V
- There should be 5V on pins 10,30,32 of the 40 pin socket. If you are seeing higher you may have D12 ( near regulator ) the wrong way.
- Pin 4 should be 2.5V and pin 3 should be 2.7V.
- If everything above has checked out remove the power and insert the chips the correct way. Now recheck the previous steps
- Set the 4 way switch to On, Off, Off, Off
At this stage you need to get the MyECU talking to the PC or Android device. To contruct the bluetooth dongle get the instructions from here. The latest Android Optimiser and manual can be found here
- Disconnect the power and connect the bluetooth dongle to MyECU using the network cable.
- Apply power to MyECU without the series resistor if previously used. You should now see a red flashing LED on the dongle. Start the Android Optimiser and connect to the BT dongle. It will probably ask for a PIN. Use 1234. When successfully connected the green LED should light. The temperature analogs should be at full scale, the voltage should display correctly. They others will float around 1/2 scale.
- You should see a 10V square wave on the low leg of R25 ( the tacho signal )
- Check the voltage at the lower leg of R28. You should see it go to 5V for 2 seconds after connecting power. Check that the gates of the 4 FETs(leftmost pin) Q1 and 2 are at 5V, all others at 0V
- Now double check your handywork and fit the PCB into the case and connect the ECU to the bike. It would be best to have the ECUController or Optimiser connected.We ARE NOT going to try to start the bike yet. Being careful to monitor for smoke or heat, turn on the ignition. You should hear the fuel pump turn for 2 seconds.The tacho my vibrate a little. Check all the analogs with the Android Optimiser. They should all be correct and the throttle should be tracked.
- Well done, at this stage construction is nearly complete. You can add Q5. Proceed to the "First steps" page