This page last updated August 17, 2013
All the images can be clicked to reveal a higher resolution image. For the part locator images, look for the green stars.
The latest board has some circuit enhancement around Q5 and some minor variation to that picture.
Solder C18 early as it needs good access.
D17 does not go in its marked spot due to error in the board. It goes to the left with its right leg in the left hole and the left leg connected to C16 lower pad. Install a link where D17 should of gone. See pic below.
Construction should only be attempted by experienced hobbyists. This kit contains many small components. A clear workspace is recommended. First identify the all components. Use the parts count to help. All the resistors are clearly labelled but the surface mount capacitors are unmarked as is the MOV.
A small soldering iron and tweezers are required and a visual aid like a lit magnifying glass is recommended. There are also some parts ( the FET bodies, some ground connections and the main connector ) that may require a soldering iron that has a higher heat capacity ( not termperature ) to properly heat the solder.
First you need to determine what variant of 15M you have. There are two types I've come across but only one particular Ducati was of the 2nd type. You'll notice that near Q7 there are two tabs. The most common type drives the fuel pump with pin 19, For this you need to jumper the right pad to the lower pad. The other type drives the fuel pump on pin 15 so you need to jumper the right pad to the upper pad. For this 2nd type also you will need to earth pin 19 ( You can jumper the lower left pad to the gnd pin of Q7).
I suggest assembly in the order of the parts list ( left ) upto and including the MOV. For the MOV, use a couple of wire lead offcuts ( These can be used to apply power for testing so leave a bit of over hang). Position MOV fully against the upper wire to improve clearance from the earth PCB. Bend the lower wire towards the MOV. Then refer to testing to complete the kit. Note some components around the ignition FETs (R1 and R2 ) are not used.
Tips: For the resistors/capacitors I put a small dab of solder on one PCB pad first. Then position the component and then apply heat to that side, Try and keep the tip flush with the body of the component. Keep time short. The capacitors seem sensitive to too much heat as there have been a few failure of them.
Make sure R38 not installed for these initial tests. I suggest initially using a small 9V battery or a 12V battery with a 100 ohm resistor in series. Do not proceed if a test fails.
Double check the orientation of D1 near the voltage regualtor. If wrong it will allow close to the battery voltage to reach the chip. That will not end well. Probably best to read the entire test steps first before trying them.
At this stage you need to get the MyECU talking to the PC or Android device. Refer to the Andoid Optimiser or ECUController manual for the steps required to estasblish communicatioon with the MyECU.
For the bluetooth interface refer to post #62 in this thread on my forum
The USB to serial cable must be connected to the network cable. There are only 3 connections that need to be made, 0V, Rx and Tx. The picture below, click to enlarge, shows how the cables are connected. The colours can be use to match them up.
Note there are 2 0V wires and the large diameter heatshrink had been placed prior to soldering. I also cut the unused wires to different length to prevent shorting.