JUMP TO: ASSEMBLY | TESTING | Comms interface

This page last updated April 19, 2013

227pFC1 2just below main chipMy16M PCB diagram
30.01uFC11 CX1 CX2two right near Ign FETs
one mid left
My16M PCB diagram
756RR5 6 7 8 28 38 1005 near RJ45, one top centre
R5 R6 labelled 47K
My16M PCB diagram
21K5R26 27top leftMy16M PCB diagram
22K7R25 34top centre
lower left
My16M PCB diagram
13K3R35lower leftMy16M PCB diagram
13K9R29top, mid main chipMy16M PCB diagram
16K8R31just above main chipMy16M PCB diagram
1410KR3 4 9 9G 13 14 17 17b 20 21 28G 30 37 102mainly centre left or below FETMy16M PCB diagram
1047KR12 12b 15 16 18 19 23 32 33 36mainly upper left, two lower rightMy16M PCB diagram
150.1uFMy16M PCB diagram
1100uF 25VC18Caution, must go correct way
1--C17No longer required
1IN5819D17Schottky diode
Caution, must go correct way
16IN914All other diodes Any general purpose small signal diode
Caution, must go correct way
1BC547T5Caution, must go correct way
4RNV3055LQ5 6 7 860V 3A logical level FET
2VND10N06Q3 460V 10A logical level FET
2ISL9V3040S3StQ1 2IGBT 430V 21A
1LM7805surface mount
140 pin IC socketCaution, must go correct way
116Mhz XTALX1
1RJ45 connector
14 DIP switch
16 pin header for firmware upgrades
13pin header for o2 sensor inputs
1Polyswitchlooks like yellow disc capacitor
1MOVSMD has dark bodybetter to mount directly under main connector between pins 34 and 35
1ATMEGA32Caution, must go correct way

My16M picture

My16M PCB diagram


All the pictures on this page refer to a circuit board prior to the MkVIIc circuit board. There a number of minor improvements.

  1. Q6 along with a few related components have been moved to the right.
  2. Q5 has been changed to a RNV3055L and moved up. It has a new 56R resistor R38.


All the images can be clicked to reveal a higher resolution image. For the part locator image, look for the green stars.

This kit contains many small components. A clear workspace is recommended. First identify the all components. Use the parts count to help. All the resistors are clearly labelled but the surface mount capacitors are unmarked as is the MOV. Construction should only be attempted by experienced hobbyists.

A small soldering iron and tweezers are required and a visual aid like a lit magnifying glass is recommended. There are also some parts ( the FET bodies, some ground connections and the main connector ) that will require a soldering iron that has a higher heat capacity ( not termperature ) to properly heat the solder.

I suggest assembly in the order of the parts list ( left ) upto and including the MOV( apply MOV with main connector ). Then refer to testing to complete the kit. Note some components around the ignition FETs are not used but a link from the cenre pin of T1 T2 must be made to the FETs. See picture above.


Make sure the microprocessor is not in its socket and Q5 not installed for these initial tests. I suggest using a small 9V battery or a 12V battery with a 100 ohm resistor in series. Do not proceed if a test fails.

  1. Apply the negative of the voltage source to one of the mounting holes.
  2. Apply the positive to the left leg of the polyswitch or pin 35 of the main connector.
  3. Check that nothing is getting warm ( including the serier resistor if used ). The voltage drop across polyswitch should be less than 1/2 volt.
  4. Check for most of the voltage at the top pin of the voltage regulator. Expect greater than 7V
  5. There should be 5V on pins 10,30,32 of the 40pin socket. If you are seeing higher you may have D4 ( near regulator ) the wrong way.
  6. Pin 4 should be 2.5V and pin 3 should be 2.7V.
  7. If everything above has checked out remove the power and insert the chip the correct way. Now recheck the previous steps

At this stage you need to get the MyECU talking to the PC or Android device.

  1. Disconnect the power and connect the RS232 adapter to My16M using the network cable and connect to the PC's COM1 port ( if you need COM2 or other, the ECUController has a configuration dialog that can be used to select the required port). Insert the CPU with pin 1 to the left
  2. Start ECUController and apply power to My16M. You should now see ECUController updating.The temperature analogs should be at full scale, the voltage should display correctly. They others will float around 1/2 scale.
  3. You should see a 10V square wave on the collector of T5 - R25 ( the tacho signal )
  4. Check the voltage at the left leg of R28 (near Q7). You should see it go to 5V for 2seconds after connecting power. Check that the gates of the 4 FETs(leftmost pin) are all at 0V
  5. Now double check your handywork and fit the PCB into the case and connect the ECU to the bike.Set all switches off except SW1. It would be best to have the ECUController or Optimiser connected.We ARE NOT going to try to start the bike yet. Being careful to monitor for smoke or heat, turn on the ignition. You should hear the fuel pump turn for 2 seconds.The tacho my vibrate a little.Check the analogs with the ECUController or Optimiser. They should all be correct and the throttle should be tracked.
  6. Check the voltage at the lower leg of R9. It should be half of the battery voltage.
  7. Well done, at this stage construction is complete. Proceed to the "First steps" page

Comms interface

For the bluetooth interface refer to post #62 in this thread on my forum

The USB to serial cable must be connected to the network cable. There are only 3 connections that need to be made, 0V, Rx and Tx. The picture below, click to enlarge, shows how the cables are connected. The colours can be use to match them up.

Note there are 2 0V wires and the large diameter heatshrink had been placed prior to soldering. I also cut the unused wires to different length to prevent shorting.

MyECU picture