JUMP TO: ASSEMBLY | TESTING | Comms interface

This page last updated August 17, 2013

All the images can be clicked to reveal a higher resolution image. For the part locator images, look for the green stars.

MyECU picture

227pFC1 2just left main chipMy16M PCB diagram
30.01uFC11 CX1 CX2two lower left
one top left of centre
My16M PCB diagram
656RR5 6 7 8 28 38two centre, three centre right. Leave R38 till later.My16M PCB diagram
21K5R26 27top leftMy16M PCB diagram
22K7R25 34top right
lower centre
My16M PCB diagram
13K3R35upper rightMy16M PCB diagram
16K8R31upper centreMy16M PCB diagram
1010KR3 4 13 14 17 17b 21 24 28G 37My16M PCB diagram
1047KR12 12b 15 16 18 19 22 23 32 33My16M PCB diagram
130.1uFMy16M PCB diagram
14IN914All other diodes Any general purpose small signal diode
Must go correct way, ESPECIALLY D1
1100uF 25VC18Caution, must go correct way
1IN5819D17Schottky diode
See errata
13K9R29underneath, upper centreMy16M PCB diagram
1BC547T5Caution, must go correct way
2RNV3055LQ5 Q760V 3A logical level FET.
2VND10N06Q3 460V 10A logical level FET
2ISL9V3040S3StQ1 2IGBT 430V 21A
1LM7805surface mount
116Mhz XTALX1
1RJ45 connector
14 DIP switch
16 pin header for firmware upgrades
13pin header for o2 sensor inputs
1Polyswitchlooks like yellow disc capacitor
1MOVSMD has dark bodyUse some wire offcuts to better secure the SMD and provide some hooks for testing
1ATMEGA32Caution, must go correct way

MyECU PCB diagram


The latest board has some circuit enhancement around Q5 and some minor variation to that picture.

Solder C18 early as it needs good access.

D17 does not go in its marked spot due to error in the board. It goes to the left with its right leg in the left hole and the left leg connected to C16 lower pad. Install a link where D17 should of gone. See pic below.

Errata 1


Construction should only be attempted by experienced hobbyists. This kit contains many small components. A clear workspace is recommended. First identify the all components. Use the parts count to help. All the resistors are clearly labelled but the surface mount capacitors are unmarked as is the MOV.

A small soldering iron and tweezers are required and a visual aid like a lit magnifying glass is recommended. There are also some parts ( the FET bodies, some ground connections and the main connector ) that may require a soldering iron that has a higher heat capacity ( not termperature ) to properly heat the solder.

First you need to determine what variant of 15M you have. There are two types I've come across but only one particular Ducati was of the 2nd type. You'll notice that near Q7 there are two tabs. The most common type drives the fuel pump with pin 19, For this you need to jumper the right pad to the lower pad. The other type drives the fuel pump on pin 15 so you need to jumper the right pad to the upper pad. For this 2nd type also you will need to earth pin 19 ( You can jumper the lower left pad to the gnd pin of Q7).

I suggest assembly in the order of the parts list ( left ) upto and including the MOV. For the MOV, use a couple of wire lead offcuts ( These can be used to apply power for testing so leave a bit of over hang). Position MOV fully against the upper wire to improve clearance from the earth PCB. Bend the lower wire towards the MOV. Then refer to testing to complete the kit. Note some components around the ignition FETs (R1 and R2 ) are not used.

Tips: For the resistors/capacitors I put a small dab of solder on one PCB pad first. Then position the component and then apply heat to that side, Try and keep the tip flush with the body of the component. Keep time short. The capacitors seem sensitive to too much heat as there have been a few failure of them.


Make sure R38 not installed for these initial tests. I suggest initially using a small 9V battery or a 12V battery with a 100 ohm resistor in series. Do not proceed if a test fails.

Double check the orientation of D1 near the voltage regualtor. If wrong it will allow close to the battery voltage to reach the chip. That will not end well. Probably best to read the entire test steps first before trying them.

  1. Apply the negative of the voltage source to one of the mounting holes or the lower hook of the MOV.
  2. Apply the positive to upper hook on the Mov or the lower leg of the polyswitch.
  3. Check that nothing is getting warm ( including the series resistor if used ). The voltage drop across polyswitch should be less than 1/2 volt.
  4. Check for most of the voltage at the lower pin of the voltage regulator. Expect greater than 7V
  5. There should be 5V on the upper pin of the regulator. If you are seeing higher you may have D1 the wrong way.
  6. Top right of the board. The common junction between R32/R33 should be 2.5V and lower pin of R35 should be 2.7V.
  7. Check that the gates of the 5 FETs ( look for the tracks coming from the 56R resistors ) are all at 0V. You should see the gate on Q7 ( fuel pump prime ) go to 5V for 1 to 2 seconds at power up

At this stage you need to get the MyECU talking to the PC or Android device. Refer to the Andoid Optimiser or ECUController manual for the steps required to estasblish communicatioon with the MyECU.

  1. The two temperature should appear at -30C and the battery voltage should be correct. The other inputs will float randomly
  2. Now double check your handywork and fit the PCB into the case and connect the ECU to the bike.Set all switches off except SW1. It would be best to have the ECUController or Optimiser connected.We ARE NOT going to try to start the bike yet. Being careful to monitor for smoke or heat, turn on the ignition. You should hear the fuel pump turn for 2 seconds.The tacho my vibrate a little.Check the analogs with the ECUController or Optimiser. They should all be correct and the throttle should be tracked.
  3. Well done, at this stage construction is complete. Proceed to the "First steps" page

Comms interface

For the bluetooth interface refer to post #62 in this thread on my forum

The USB to serial cable must be connected to the network cable. There are only 3 connections that need to be made, 0V, Rx and Tx. The picture below, click to enlarge, shows how the cables are connected. The colours can be use to match them up.

Note there are 2 0V wires and the large diameter heatshrink had been placed prior to soldering. I also cut the unused wires to different length to prevent shorting.

MyECU picture