All the pictures on this page refer to a circuit board prior to the MkVIIc circuit board. There a number
of minor improvements.
- Q6 along with a few related components have been moved to the right.
- Q5 has been changed to a RNV3055L and moved up. It has a new 56R resistor R38.
- MkVIIe replaces 16 discrete doides with 9 dual diodes
- MkVIIe has additional 10K(RS1) and 18K(RS2) resistors (right of crystal)
All the images can be clicked to reveal a higher resolution image. For the part locator image, look
for the green stars.
This kit contains many small components. A clear workspace is recommended. First identify the all
components. Use the parts count to help. All the resistors are clearly labelled but the surface
mount capacitors are unmarked as is the MOV.
Construction should only be attempted by experienced hobbyists.
A small soldering iron and tweezers are required and a visual aid like a lit magnifying glass is
recommended. There are also some parts ( the FET bodies, some ground connections and the main
connector ) that will require a soldering
iron that has a higher heat capacity ( not termperature ) to properly heat the solder.
I suggest assembly in the order of the parts list ( left ) upto and including the MOV( apply MOV with
main connector ). Then refer to testing to complete the kit.
Make sure the microprocessor is not in its socket and Q5 not installed for these initial tests. I
suggest using a small 9V battery or a 12V battery with a 100 ohm resistor in series. Do not proceed
if a test fails.
- Apply the negative of the voltage source to one of the mounting holes.
- Apply the positive to the left leg of the polyswitch or pin 35 of the main connector.
- Check that nothing is getting warm ( including the serier resistor if used ). The voltage drop
across polyswitch should be less than 1/2 volt.
- Check for most of the voltage at the top pin of the voltage regulator. Expect greater than 7V
- There should be 5V on pins 10,30,32 of the 40pin socket. If you are seeing higher you may have
D4 ( near regulator ) the wrong way.
- Pin 4 should be 2.5V and pin 3 should be 2.7V.
- If everything above has checked out remove the power and insert the chip the correct way. Now
recheck the previous steps
At this stage you need to get the MyECU talking to the PC or Android device.
- Disconnect the power and connect the RS232 adapter to My16M using the network cable and connect
to the PC's COM1 port ( if you need COM2 or other, the ECUController has a configuration dialog
that can be used to select the required port).
Insert the CPU with pin 1 to the left
- Start ECUController and apply power to My16M. You should now see ECUController updating.The
temperature analogs should be at full scale, the voltage should display correctly. They others
will float around 1/2 scale.
- You should see a 10V square wave on the collector of T5 - R25 ( the tacho signal )
- Check the voltage at the left leg of R28 (near Q7). You should see it go to 5V for 2seconds
after connecting power. Check that the gates of the 4 FETs(leftmost pin) are all at 0V
- Now double check your handywork and fit the PCB into the case and connect the ECU to the
bike.Set all switches off except SW1. It would be best to have the ECUController or Optimiser
connected.We ARE NOT going to try to start the bike yet. Being careful to monitor for smoke or
heat, turn on the ignition. You should hear the fuel pump turn for 2 seconds.The tacho my
vibrate a little.Check the analogs with the ECUController or Optimiser. They should all be
correct and the throttle should be tracked.
- Check the voltage at the lower leg of R9. It should be half of the battery voltage.
- Well done, at this stage construction is complete. Proceed to the "First steps" page